How to modify patterns by body type #2. Correction of the phenomenon of the front length running

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작성일 : 2022.12.14 11:40
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2. Correction of the front-length running phenomenon : Use the same method to adjust styles with panels.

 



If there is a waist dart, draw a horizontal cut line at the end of the dart as in <Figure 1>, and draw a vertical cut line connecting the center of the waist dart width from the end of the dart. Or, cut the horizontal and vertical cut lines as in <Figure 2>. While aligning the vertical of the front center line, spread the horizontal cut line by the amount to be increased, and then spread the vertical cut line, and then attach the tape. If you modify the waist dart line again, the dart width will be widened and the front length will be increased.

If there is a princess line front and side panel, if there is a princess line on the body <Figure 3>

As shown, the front center plate draws a horizontal cut line from the front center line toward the BP point, and the front side plates draw a slanted horizontal cut line from the BP point toward the side seam line. 

Or, as in <Figure 4>, spread the horizontal cut line of the front center plate parallel to the amount that the front center line should be vertically increased and attach it with tape. After cutting the cut line of the front and side panels toward the side seam line, do not spread the end of the side seam, and spread only the princess line equal to the amount that the front center plate should be spread, and then attach it with tape. Connect the front center line vertically and naturally modify the princess line of the front center plate and the front and side panels.


 


In the case of the front of the Mudat, if there is no dart on the front, draw a horizontal cut line at the BP position of the body as in <Figure 5>, and then draw a vertical cut line from the BP point toward the waist line. Or, as in <Figure 6>, cut the horizontal and vertical cut lines, then spread the horizontal cut line by the amount to be increased while aligning the vertical of the front center line, and then spread the vertical cut line, and then attach the tape.

In the case of <Figure 7>, the waistline is corrected by reducing the waist circumference that has widened while increasing the front length in <Figure 6> without darts on the side line. This is a correction method that should be avoided for fabrics with horizontal stripes or L-shaped patterns.

<Figure 8> is a method of moving the waist opening width to create a chest dart in order to straighten the waistline.