How to modify patterns by body type #4. Correcting patterns for a body type with wide shoulders

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작성일 : 2022.12.14 14:31
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How to modify patterns by body type #4. Correcting patterns for a body type with wide shoulders

For set-in sleeves or sleeveless tops, draw a vertical line about 3cm from the shoulder points of the front and back panels toward the waistline as shown in <Figure 1>. Cut the incision line from the shoulder line of the drawn incision line toward the waistline with scissors, and cut horizontally toward the vertical line cut from the side waist point. 

Or, as in <Figure 2>, if the shoulder incision line is widened, the shoulder area will become widened, so the shoulder seam line is revised again.



For raglan sleeve tops, tape the sleeve pattern to the raglan lines of the front and back as shown in <Figure 3>. From the side neck point, about 12 cm down the shoulder seam line, draw a vertical cut line toward the waist line, and cut the cut line from the shoulder line to the waist line with scissors. Cut horizontally toward the vertical line cut from the side waist point. If you open the shoulder cut line, the shoulder area will open. Adjust the shoulder seam line and raglan line to the right balance, and separate the attached sleeve pattern again.

For tops with shoulder yokes, tape the shoulder yoke area to the yoke lines of the front and back panels as shown in <Figure 4>. For yokes with shoulder seams, cut the shoulder seam line at the shoulder gap first and then attach it. As described in <Figure 1> and <Figure 2>, widen the shoulder width and modify the yoke line and shoulder seam line. For designs with shoulder seams, reattach the shoulder seam line and then modify the armhole line of the yoke.




Tip

As the shoulders become wider, the sleeve width becomes lower and the sleeve circumference also becomes larger. Shoulder width up to 2cm or more If you need to increase it, check the sleeve width and widen it proportionally. Optimal fitting is possible.