How to modify patterns by body type

#6. Small cup breasts 

If the top of the garment fits perfectly around the shoulders and waist, but the fabric around the chest appears bulgy,

Let's take a look at how we can easily deal with such problems.

First, reduce the bodice area.

As shown in <Figure 1>, draw a change line on the paper pattern,

Cut out the pattern along that line from the right seam to the end of the shoulder.

Then, as shown in <Figure 2>, turn the part with vibration 1cm toward the center front, and draw a straight shoulder seam line from the neckline to the vibration.

Next, draw a new side seam as shown in <Figure 3> and adjust it to fit, including the side chest dart.

By making this change, you can slightly reduce the side seam, and by measuring the length of the side seams of the front and back sections, you can make up half of the difference in length from the armhole. For styles with partial seams, tape several section patterns starting from the armhole and matching the seam numbers. Then, draw a change line as in <Figure 4>, cut along that line, then turn the part with the armhole 1cm toward the center front, tape in place, and draw a new side seam line and partial seam line. Then, cut the pattern from the partial seam again, and adjust the length of the front and rear side ends.

Next, reduce the dart size. In the case of the garment of the Underarm bust dart, draw a horizontal change line from the center front to the end of the dart as in <Figure 5> and <Figure 6>, then mark the end of the dart, and cut the pattern along the horizontal change line and the center of the dart. Overlap the edges of the cut fabrics by 1 to 1.5 cm and attach tape. Then draw a new dart. 

In the case of a garment with a vertical chest dart, draw a change line as in <Figure 7> and <Figure 8>, then cut out the pattern from the center front almost to the side seam line, and from the lower end almost to the upper point of the dart. Overlap the edges of the cut fabrics 1 to 1.5 cm above the dart point from the center front and attach tape. Then, continue to taper in a wedge shape (V) from the dart point to the side seam line. Then, adjust the size and shape of the vertical dart.

In the case of garments with section seams, draw a change line at the chest height of each front part as in <Figure 9> and <Figure 10>. Then, cut out the center front part, overlap it by about 1 to 1.5 cm, and apply tape. Then, cut the pattern from the end of the section seam to almost the side seam line, and attach the tape so that the cut part overlaps with the center front in the same size as the end of the partial seam. At this time, make sure that the end of the side seam is not changed.

Tip

The finished Bodice Shirt, blouse or If the front chest area of a jacket or similar item is too wide, It's difficult to adjust.

How well it fits your body In Dart as a whole Since it varies, you may need to adjust the pattern in advance to make changes.