How to modify patterns by body type #7. Correcting patterns for a body type with a hunched back

The back is bent, and the front of the dress, blouse, jacket, etc. fits, but the back is pulled on both sides and the length is not enough, so the middle of the waistline is raised, which is a problem. Let's take a look at how to solve this problem.

For patterns with shoulder darts ,

As shown in <Figure 1>, draw a horizontal cut line across the entire pattern based on the end point of the shoulder dart, then cut the dart and the horizontal cut line as shown in <Figure 2> and open it 1 to 1.5 cm from the back center line of the horizontal cut line and overlap it by 0.5 cm at the armhole to make the dart wider.

If the dart is too wide, slightly reduce the dart width and ease the shoulder seam when sewing. 

For patterns without shoulder darts,

<As shown in Figure 3>, draw a horizontal cut line 8cm below the back center line from the back neck point, and then draw a horizontal cut line downwards 3~4cm from the side neck point along the shoulder seam line. Cut the horizontal and vertical cut lines as shown in <Figure 4>, and then cut the horizontal line, and then cut along the vertical line from the shoulder to almost the horizontal cut part. If you open the horizontal cut line 1~1.5cm from the back center line and overlap it by 0.5cm from the armhole, a new back shoulder seam dart will be created.

For patterns with a seam line from the shoulder,

<Figure 6> Attach the back center plate and the back side plates with the grain direction aligned. Draw a horizontal cut line 8cm down from the back neck point along the back center line. Cut the horizontal cut line, then separate the back center plate and the back side plates. Open the horizontal cut line of the back center plate 1-1.5cm, and open the horizontal cut line of the back side plate 1-1.5cm in the same amount as the open seam of the back center plate, and overlap the armhole side by 0.5cm. Naturally adjust the seam lines and armhole lines of the back center plate and the back side plates to match the balance.

Tip

A finished bodice or shirt or garment that has a curved back and no longer fits can have the length of the back increased as long as it does not exceed the allowance.